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part of the nineteenth, the eighteenth part

ontological error of Ceausescu

The night train from Varna leads me to Bucharest and Moscow as a destination belongs to the Russian railways. The two provodniki wagon are already drunk before departure and check what I can not read the ticket even after having put on his glasses and turned on the light of his desk. At the border will be groomed by police Romanians because they do not know how many passengers of the car will not be able to count (we are seven in all) and do not even find their documents.

Radu, one of the other six passengers, working in Bucharest for an MEP Romania. From the train station, along the center of town, where Ceausescu built the Casa del Popolo, a huge building and insignificant as Unirii Boulevard, the road that branches off from it. The intention of the dictator would have to obscure the fame of the Champs Elysees and to achieve it did raze one of the most beautiful in the nineteenth century Bucharest. The boulevard is actually longer than six meters in Paris, but the essence of the Champs Elysées is not in size, in the form of tree-lined avenue flanked by buildings or in the name of heavenly. Activities is that people will play, which, in turn, attract other people and so on. Nothing interesting, though, happens on the road that leads to the Casa del Popolo.

not even impressive Revolution Square, overlooked by the palace that was home to the Central Committee of the Communist Party here Ceausescu gave his last speech, before placing orders to fire on the crowd and groped flight. Radu tells me that is not a museum that tells the events of 1989 because "it is too early," and many consider nothing more than the revolution a coup organized by several generals, as there was no real opposition to the regime. With the execution of the dictator, however, the Romanians shrugged off a government that oppressed the people with oppressive policies such as no basis to meet the needs of people. The collectivization of agriculture, for example, was integral to the economy as was the Unirii Boulevard in terms of urban planning. The ethnographer and painter Horia Bernea use the term "deception" to define the communist regime, the word emphasizes the use of a system of deceit and lies, and evokes empathy for, the use of wild charges.

Ceausescu came to define 'Epoca de Aur "The years 1965 to 1989, during which, to pay the foreign debt, diverted to export agricultural production and forced the population to malnutrition . In Alba Iulia an exhibition tells the time in an essential but highly effective, combining propaganda and reality: the objects of the "social consumption", for example, are displayed alongside the reports of Securitate, the political police that controlling teachers "slanderers" and preparing "actions" against dissident intellectuals. The persecution of the latter, however, was not an invention of Ceausescu: Nicolae Baciu, whose work is now dedicated a room in the castle of Bran, was arrested and tortured in 1948, managed to escape, to swim across the Danube and repair in Yugoslavia. Also arrested there, then fled to Paris, where he published his research on the "betrayal" perpetrated at Yalta by Churchill and Roosevelt to the detriment of the countries of Eastern Europe.

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House humor

Gabrovo is a town in central Bulgaria, whose inhabitants are known for their attachment to money and their commercial enterprise. For this reason have become the protagonists of the Bulgarian jokes about stingy. In order to substantiate these rumors, and of course, profit, April 1, 1972 they founded the house of humor, appointed to collect and pass on the jokes about them. I learn in this way that, during the feast, the inhabitants of Gabrovo dance in silence and with shoes lined with felt to dampen noise and make the musical accompaniment of the orchestra that is playing in the nearest town. The jars have a protection that allows you to not wet his mustache with the beer foam, thus avoiding to consume a towel to dry them. Reproductions of typical mugs and other items are obviously for sale in the gift shop of the House.

Over the years, the House, whose motto is "The world lasts because it laughs," has launched a series of competitions international humor and satire, with sections for painting, graphics, sculpture, photography and cartoons, all areas in which today has an amazing collection. In 1983 he started publishing the magazine "By the way, whose director, Todor Dinova, describes the Bulgaria in the preface to the first issue:" It is a small Balkan country, located at the crossroads between Europe and Asia. For over 1300 years this state has the same name and has never moved from his seat. It has withstood the vicissitudes of history, not for the strength of its population or that of his hosts, but for that of her smile. " Among the pages of the magazine, then find some knowledge of the previous days: the devils that live in the frescoes of the monastery of Rila and Otto Reisinger, the cartoonist of Slovenian origin whose boards are displayed at the National Gallery of Art in Sofia.

deserves a space the man who runs the hostel where I have settled in Sofia: a pot-bellied man of about fifty badly worn, with white hair and shaggy beard and unkempt, not speaks English but knows a few words of several other languages, is cross-eyed and very kind. His number is most amusing mimic American tourists that have battered the coffee machine, door handles and washing machine. In it is around the hostel, he repeats the gestures of the unfortunate guests, shaking his head with disgust and disbelief and mutters face the greatest disappointment with "Amerikanski, amerikanski.

Delicious are my guests to Madara, a city of northeastern Bulgaria. My goal is to visit the Goljamata Peshtera , the large cave in which the worship of Dionysus and Cybele, and I stop for tourists in a house located near the archaeological site. It is a construction of the sixties, never restored and run by a couple rather advanced in years. The owner me talk about trying to slip a bit 'of English in its German, shows me the room ohne bathroom and ends every sentence with a slight bow.

The archaeological park is famous for the bas-relief dating from the eighth century, which is reproduced on the coins Bulgarian: the Khan kills a lion, accompanied by his dog who is the faithful people. It can be reached via a staircase that opens in the middle of a forest, on top of which I appear, heralded by the sound of a flute, a man in traditional costume that has the air of being there since he was appointed guardian of Dionysus' sacred area dedicated to their cults. Now he pretends to be a seller of wind instruments, buy a whistle, that man chooses and gives me thoughtfully accompanied by a long series of recommendations for the child who'll give the object.

Unfortunately you can not visit the caves and, therefore, I'm going home. The lounge bar is furnished with three tables with chairs in metal-coated synthetic leather and consumed and the first one I tried was sold because he had a broken leg. On every table there are tablecloths with floral prints and pots with plants that grow in water. On the windowsill inside a large glass semicircular have sided flowers in a vase and succulent plants, next to a television broadcasting the soap opera followed by the owner. I ask how one can reach Varna and the lady tells me that the only option is to take the morning train for Šumen, where I can find a connecting flight to Varna. Given that I will cover some miles on foot to reach the station, estimated that out of the house around 6.30 and, therefore, balance the account and greeting, they are the only customer and I will not force the woman to get up early. The next morning, however, when I go out of my room that I'm the owner is making coffee.

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part seventeenth, sixteenth part

See Albania

I Tedeschini spouses, Joseph and Alma, manage the only bed & breakfast in Durres. The city is the port of Albania for those who come by sea from the west and the pair plays a similar role: it introduces travelers to the knowledge of their country.

I was met by a friend in Albania, Elena, and the house where we were greeted is a building of 1840, one of the few that survive the housing boom. With democracy has returned to private ownership and most of those who have seen the return property nationalized by the communist regime to transfer it to builders in exchange for a couple of floors of the skyscraper that will replace their old property.

This is not any house: it was the residence of the Consul of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a position he has held the Tedeschini and handed down from father to son, after having been for centuries and always inherited by Consuls of the Republic of Venice. The First World War has wiped out the empire, and with it, the family business, Joseph is now an agronomist in charge of biological and integrated, but the attachment to the history of the ancestors is big: the portrait of the princess Sissi which dominates the dining room has been hidden under the mattress for decades at a time when we ended up in jail if caught listening to Celentano or the Beatles.

Ben out in the same room, there is a photographic catalog of the Hapsburg possessions, printed in 1896 during the fifty years of the reign of Francis Joseph I am passionate to leaf through it because the town meeting, before arriving in Albania, I visited the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia and Slovenia. The volume bears the stamp on the front page of the console Tedeschini.

the evening, Alma brings us together around a map of Albania and discussing the places to visit the next day. After choosing a destination, plunder the family library for historical information, archaeological, ethnographic.

In Berat, for example, a city founded by the Byzantines and then belonged to the Turks, the development of twentieth century did not affect the architectural coherence of the oldest neighborhoods: Gorica, Mangalemi and the Citadel. The dense texture of their buildings whitewashed and inlaid with Byzantine churches, mosques and mansions of Pasha, one of which is housed a renowned Museum of Ethnography. Photographs of tourist publications portray them from below, highlighting the many windows, but from the ramparts of the castle, searching the rooftops and the plant, it can also appreciate the consistency.

The Citadel, the Byzantine church of San Nicola is in an advanced stage of restoration, we pause to observe the painting of an interior wall, a saint whose left eye was removed. At that point, the painting presents a groove an inch deep. This is a frequent occurrence in countries that were subject to the Ottoman Empire, often reported in the accounts of Western travelers since the nineteenth century. In any case, the culprit was identified among the Turks or Albanians Muslims as proof of their barbarity. In the eighties of last century the phenomenon was exploited by the propaganda of the Serbian offensive against Kosovo Albanians, which was attributed, among other things, the blindness of the Byzantine princess Simonida fresco in the monastery of Gracanica, near Pristina.

the issue has recently occupied Božidar Jezernik, anthropologist at the University Ljubljana, in his book Wild Europe, The Balkans in the Gaze of Western Travellers . Jezernik shows that were the same as Orthodox believers to affect the frescoes to remove the dust that is believed to have miraculous power to cure vision problems. All with the blessing of the clergy, who tolerate this practice pocketed substantial offers. Because Western had no passengers questioned the suspected version unfavorable to the Muslims and personally? Jezernik suggests that they were prepared to see only what they had already decided that they would see in those remote and unknown regions of Europe. A little 'as it happens today, the Western tourists they see the rest of the world only to be pitied poor or picturesque places in front of which sigh, so that he can feel simultaneously good and above.

The denigration of a country always prepares his "civilization" or its colonization. Bismarck, tells Joseph, said that in Albania there were men with tails, he was not alone, so much so that Jezernik devoted to the subject one of the tastiest chapters of his book.

not only sight but also hearing can be misleading: it is perhaps because the name sounds Italian Tedeschini that a young Londoner, Having stayed in B & B among the relics of the Hapsburgs, it has been convinced that the building was the former Italian consulate.

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Pope: "To accept
peoples of all nations and cultures"
The message of Benedict XVI: "Parents must educate
their children to the universal brotherhood "

The Pope's words come after the Sarkozy government's decision to expel dozens of immigrants and Roma after the warning of the CEI on immigration to Italy. Bishop Giancarlo Perego, Director General of the Fondazione Migrantes Italian Episcopal Conference (CEI), said in fact that "Italy can not decide to expel the Roma across the board or other public Community. "


MESTRE. Besieged by beggars and fools:
Capuchin monks "sealed" the church
a railing and a wall will make inaccessible
the churchyard at night, where they camp for some time the stragglers

Mestre (17 August) - In September, the church of the Capuchins closes in the bunker. Via a gate on the side of cappuccino and a gate and a wall on the side of the square. The brothers are exacerbated and after having tried everything they have decided to close. And the Polish Josef will move. With him another 7-8 that made those "Sotoportego" their home.

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Answer

At the request of Gingko warm, my response public. It is not a defense response in the sense of attack, parry-thrust. Why do not I wanted to play in the duel. These are just some observations.

o ------- o ------ o ------ o ------ o ------- o ------- o
Rereading
at 10 days after the first reading, I confess to portray a good part of the picture represented. Also admit that I was initially annoyed, but not offended or hurt. Moreover, it is always curious and alienating together to discover the self-image developed on the other. And because it reflects the image we want to give us, and because it reflects the image we have of ourselves. Above all, it can irritate the way they are given our opinions, beliefs and idiosyncrasies. Since we also know our "unsaid" is perceived as a manipulation guide which is actually an extrapolation of thumb in good faith. In fact, in some places I think you do me wrong.
First childbirth by a definition of my position stolen elsewhere: "I am a bourgeois Jacobin who believes in the virtues of public affairs and think that civic engagement is part of the elegance of existence." But yes, I am essentially bourgeois. I think in reality that does not give great contribution to the theoretical distinction between "bourgeois" / "blue collar" used inappropriately and in an arbitrary manner. We are all middle class and we are all workers.
I am absolutely convinced that our conflicting views find expression and acceleration in the concept of revolution.
is clear that I do not see the revolution as a single block are clearly identified, with a safe destination. I never "studied" ('Cause this is) the love of Jesus of Nazareth or love and revenge that dissolves the oppressed from their sufferings. And I is not sure how clear this process would be able to work and leave. It is definitely true that "his supreme confidence in the technique prevents him to draw on a credible happiness." I do not believe in heaven on earth.
But it is quite wrong to say that I see with this tone "of capitalist production in increasing the technical and the resulting change in the relationship between productive forces and relations of production, the necessary first step which preceded the emancipation of the proletariat." I confess frankly that I'm not very convinced nothing about it. However, I am convinced that the social production and the allocation of property rights can change radically without any change radically the human condition. As always, this will remain subject to economic management of material resources (meaning those in the most versatile possible) limited but that is not limited. Until the end of the world humanity will always have to deal with death, disease and marginalization. Yet this does not count. The possibility of reaching some ultimate happiness as you paint it you will not coincide with my vision of human nature and society: I do not deny that it is possible, however, deny that anyone could to assert convincingly that it is certainly feasible in this world (the only matter). Man and society are things too complicated for anyone who can boast a magic bullet.

Let me be clear, I do not think I have an answer. Surely not have the answer. Maybe you and the Situationist tradition of which you seem to have reason and spokespersons have the answer. From what little I read, I enjoyed. For my part I am afraid, however, that the leap in the use of happiness that buys the television is not the release in a nutshell, just a nice image of humanity, almost ironic, even offensive. For some fanatic instead is the slave who is put in chains.
I tell you what I disliked: liberal views who want the poor and oppressive society, good and the individual who aspires to realize its full potential, or the nature of which is torn. The speech comes down to this. I find that the Manichean and chock full of ambiguity. What
sketches, Gingko, there seems a sort of return to mother nature, full of literary influences. The reality is that what he sketches here is not a social project. But only pertains to your salvation.
I find that there is no reason to reject technological progress, economic development. I think that we can not look at the history erasing what was there and there, and that the current is always the basis from which you must leave, for good or evil. To this must be known, studied and understood. In this, one can not go beyond an economic discourse that specifies a bit 'more about what "radical destabilization." Nor can transcend political transformation, anthropological, which must be a re-appropriation of self, rather than imposing ideological (only deleterious). In this culture, at least during the transition, can and must take the lead. A guide in the Harmony can not contribute.
Humanity, this is the goal, to steal as much as possible of the economic forces unleashed and which is governed. Turns to her advantage, rather than be enslaved. Mind you, the economic forces of which we speak should always and only be half. The aim must be the man. Mattia
can feel created by the construction of robotic stilts, and you're not anyone to stop bragging that the natural virtues of the body. Because of this you are talking about.
"At a time when the company discovered that it depends on the economy, the economy in fact depends on it. This underground power has grown up to appear sovereign, has thus lost its power. Where was the economic example, must be the "I".
The relaxation of the mesh social objective that we have no means exclusive, must be annotated on the basis of an overall vision of man and society.
confess still feel too ignorant to tackle any project for reform. Yet I think that trial and error is something pot would do.


Alceverde.

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Yugo-nostalgia

The Museum of the City of Zagreb is a cramped room dedicated to the war of the nineties. The facts are summarized in a caption of some thirty lines, where it says that Croatia "had to go to war" and he mentions the operation Storm of 4 and 5 August 1995 in which it regained the territories previously occupied by the Serbian army. A video shows a few episodes of the conflict: Pope John Paul II blesses the troops, soldiers with camouflage colors repaint buses and armed with welding machine, turn in armored vans. I leave with the feeling of being mocked: You want to believe that the Croats have rejected Milosevic's army because of their ability to DIY? No mention, for example, Military Professional Resources Inc., the U.S., with the approval of the Clinton administration, provided staff training and the Croatian army, nor is mention made of Croatian generals Gotovina, Cermak and Markač, on trial at the Court International Hague for war crimes committed during the operation.

I try to understand more than the war in Ljubljana, going to see the documentary The road of unity and fraternity Maja Weiss. B51 The road was built after the Second World War from 3,000 technical and 54,000 volunteers of the Communist Youth to affirm the unity of Yugoslavia. The director has recounted in 1998, from Slovenia to Macedonia, to record the nostalgia and hatred, and to reconnect the broken links from the current communication difficulties. One of the young people who worked on the construction of the road says, "We were happy and convinced that we would live together in peace and forever. The way things are today, is no longer possible. "Another:" Nostalgia is not for the old state, is for youth, when life was good. "

One interviewee tells a joke: a Kosovar Albanian ask a Montenegrin: "How come you are 500,000 and have an independent state and two million of us who do not have one?" Do not worry - the answer is - when there will be 500,000 along to you. "

Mojca, a precious friendship born in a hostel in Rio de Janeiro, is very busy with his doctoral thesis in aesthetics, but finds time to take me to the Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia for the exhibition on Plakatna Afera or scandal of 1987 posters. Every year we celebrate Tito's birthday, May 25, with a relay race in which the Communist Youth traveled the country before coming to Belgrade and to pay tribute to the President. The republics of the federation in turn hosted the start of the torch relay and preparing and posters for the event. In 1987, in a climate already independent, this task falls to Slovenia. The jury chose the designated poster Novi Kolektivizem proposed by the study: a man, young, blond, wielding the baton, on which is carved the tower of the parliament in Ljubljana, while the other hand holding a flag of Yugoslavia, where the auction is topped by a white dove. The sketch was published by the newspaper "Politika" and a reader pointed out that it was revising Thirty years of work of German designer Richard Klein: The Nazi flag was replaced with the Yugoslav and the eagle with the dove. The study is part of Novi Kolektivizem with other artists as the music group Laibach (Ljubljana in German), the collective Slowenische Neue Kunst. They work on the aesthetics of power and submission with reference to the thesis of the Slovenian psychoanalyst Slavoj Zizek. The intent of subverting the totalitarianism is not achieved by the criticism, the complaint ol'ironia, but, according to a strategy sovraidentificazione through the staging, without taking away the symbols of which have served the Nazi regimes, the socialism real, the capitalist West and the recent nationalisms. NSK has built the foundation of its formal aesthetics with reference to the artistic avant-garde of the twenties, as did the political ideologies of the twentieth century. The viewer is led to experience the desire of submission that sparked the mad followers of the various forms of totalitarianism, in which he is forced to look at himself. The acquisition of this knowledge is, in the intentions of the collective, the only tool available for ensuring that history will repeat itself in the emergence of repressive systems.

The day ends at a table in a cafe overlooking the square dedicated to the French Revolution. Here was erected a monument to the Unknown Soldier in the Napoleonic Army, "grave pour notre liberté." Bostian works at the Slovene national television and tells me of a pub that everyone calls "Bangladesh." Years ago, "back in the socialist era" says Bostian, a television crew, which is based opposite the pub, was sent to Bangladesh to cover a meeting of the Non-Aligned Movement, and before going to the airport, the journalists went the pub, got drunk and lost the plane. Some hours later the director of television and the phone rang in the pub was raised by one of its journalists drunk. The director, surprised, asked, "Where are you?" and the answer was: "In Bangladesh,"

Train Ljubljana to Thessaloniki is an antique, at least fifty years old, which can meet the claims of the most demanding lover of the "battered the Balkans" compartments of the truck bed on one side have three bunk beds, a sink near the window is hidden by the mirror to shave and down the hall There is a chair that is the location of the controller, from which he can see if you turn on the red lights that indicate the calls of the passengers. The controller that I will smoke the lot fell sigh and complain all night. Throughout the car there are only five passengers, all over sixty years, and up to Belgrade will not rise any more.

I leave the station in Belgrade at seven in the morning and walked to the center. A few hundred yards away, along the way Nemanjina are clearly visible two buildings gutted by the NATO bombing of 1999. This is the first time I visit a country that Italy has attacked militarily in my lifetime.

The center was built at the confluence of the Danube and the confluence of the Sava and fruit are the impressions that I collect during my walks around the city. Knez Mihailova pedestrian zone is cosmopolitan, its sides are Central European style architecture that has the offices of Italian banks and its spine is a row of outdoor cafes, contemporary version, sponsored by American and German beers drinks of coffee Ottomans. The percentage of smokers is very high, inside and outside the premises, and the Museum of Applied Arts is hosting an exhibition entitled Ars Fumandi . The same museum, a retrospective at the French designer Charlotte Perriand, while at the Gallery of Contemporary Art There Breaking Step , contemporary British art exhibition. Here the group Henry VIII's Wives exhibited his works based on the draft Monument to the Third International Tatlin secure the Novaya Galerija Tretyakov in Moscow. There are, then, their photographs in the series Iconic Moments of the 20 th Century and the equally intelligent work Chozko Adam, Nathan Coley, Jeremy Deller and the collective Inventory. If pedestrian and art galleries suggest central Europe, Another aspect of Belgrade me back in Moscow: the beauty and elegance of women; unforgettable a beautiful girl with a lovely emerald green satin blouse, sleeveless and with a showy ribbon closure on left shoulder.

The corridors of power are great, as befitted the realm of the southern Slavs born after the First World War and the Republic of Tito, who was a military and diplomatic power. In comparison, a state that Serbia now seems, put in a washing machine at the wrong came out tight. The Ethnographic Museum, however, "aims to show the unity of the Serbian people gathered around objects sacred places which, for centuries, gave their ethnic and cultural power of attraction "and exhibited at the map shows how" Serb areas "most of Bosnia and Croatia, and Kosovo, and the Banat up Arad and Temesvar. Let me know the official version of events that led to the dissolution of Yugoslavia, but the Yugoslav History Museum is closed indefinitely. Provo at the Museum of Military History. In the last room contains weapons and equipment of the "Albanian terrorists in Kosovo ', the' rebel Croatian 'and the crew of a downed U.S. fighter in 1999, along with photographs of civilians killed during the bombing of city \u200b\u200bof Nis by NATO. There is also a reliquary containing depleted uranium shells used by NATO troops. The captions indicate the origin of the seized weapons to Croatia and men of the KLA (USA, Germany, Slovenia), but does not mention either the origin or evolution of the conflict between Serbia and NATO.

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part of the fifteenth, fourteenth part

The city prostitute

The return trip to Europe was insignificant, as any movement by air, and most importantly I had to part with Gianmaria and Barbara. Now I'm here in Brno Josef Hoffmann studied here and was imprisoned Pellico. The Czech Republic is familiar to me, not because there are already, but because the roads, buildings, parks, trams, people have something that I would call in Turin. Why do I feel this feeling in Brno and Warsaw? That is the model city that I absorbed over time?

European cities are born, in Roman or medieval, like enclosed spaces, other than what's out there. Look for the regularity of orthogonal or the presence of the walls that follow and amplify the curves of the hills on which it stands, the space inside them is organized and tidy.

This certainly conveys a sense of security, the city does not confuse us, nay, it is easy to navigate, and protects from external disorder, whatever their origin may be. Free from these concerns, orientation and external dangers, people do not start from scratch in their construction of a world in which to express individual and at the same time, find meaning to their activities. Secure the foundations of this world are already laid. We can now devote to what is within himself, at the same time, deeper and more refined, and this painting, architecture, trade or otherwise.

It is clear that over the centuries sediment layers, which strengthen the foundation and, thus, allow searches boldest of the new generations of citizens: the Gothic cathedrals, parks, subways, skyscrapers and shopping centers are all improvements that are made to the basic structure.

What happens to the traveler that reaches the walls, real or ideal, of the city? It offers the protection and restoration, but he wants something in return. The shows and asks to be admired. Hospitality is also made of this: one acts generously to build a good reputation, which in turn can be spent to ensure that hospitality is reciprocated or an added value, a kind of origin marking for products that depart from that city to be sold worldwide.

For example, what Paris gives the traveler in terms of charm and well-being, he moved to the more or less luxurious items which are then purchased by those who wish, through the object, experience the atmosphere lived along the Seine. The city itself can be transformed into products, traded on the tourism market, as well as in Paris knows how long this field.

In summary, the city created a distinguished and ordered space, holds and protects, it shows, for sound and prudent calculation vanity.

Now, what kind of citizens are the source of the city that I have described? Let's step back: the functions to which the city serves are those that meet the needs of its inhabitants. So, fear of chaos and external dangers, natural and / or human, must be present. I citizens, then, must also feel the need to build a good reputation, an attractive image, must, in short, feel the need to please others, to impress them. If their power, understood simply as the ability to survive and reproduce, is based on the use of force, we would not have cities, but inaccessible fortresses, built to intimidate.

arises because the city must be people who base their power on the contact and exchange with strangers, to whom they should give something, such as to inspire trust, in exchange for what they need. Obviously, I'm describing the commercial classes, which heads also that particular type of business that is diplomacy, as the exchange of political favors.

is so that citizens, through their judges, technicians rely on the task of building the city that, because of their shape, push foreigners to spend their money.

I'm trying to show that there is no city where there is no merchant class, then attempt a rebuttal. You can talk about neighborhoods in the city for housing in the capitalist world, remains to Soviet planning or urban agglomerations in Mexico or the Middle East? In their inhabitants, as employed or unemployed, there is no need to "pleasure": what economic benefits they derive from spending money to beautify the neighborhoods in which they live? Their salary would not increase even more, it would be an impoverishment.

what to build, however, traders from nineteenth-century industrialization? First, avenues, boulevards , which are no longer the narrow streets of medieval cities. It is not just a matter of meters, the path forward security and trust, anyone is welcome. Second difference: on the road no longer overlook the shops, in used to produce what you sell, but the shops, the production has been moved to other areas of the city. This fact adds elegance and coquetry of the road, which can thus become a place of ostentation which outlines the social status.

serves the same purpose, the spread of coffee, theater, cinema and other forms of entertainment, replacing the old parties they have fun together once a year.

Both in Anglo-French and the German and Austro-Hungarian railway stations become new points of the compass and the Avenue of the station is one of the main arteries, or even the principal for a walk. Spread quality architecture in private and the presence of districts in which the cams are confined and exhibited at the same time.

The Ethnographic Museum in Budapest seems to support theories that Jarrek and I have developed: highlight the emergence of the middle class to the middle of the nineteenth century and the consistency of the Calvinist component, which in 1890 represented 30% of Hungarians . Reformation and the middle class: the result is that Budapest is not Warsaw, because since 1808 the Archduke Joseph of Hapsburg had established the Commission for Landscaping city, in order to set a schedule that would prevent an urban sprawl.

, I think the Mexico City, Jerusalem and Warsaw are not true of cities like Turin, Milan, Trieste, Budapest, Barcelona and Brno, because I introjected models of the second industrial revolution and I look for in a city possession, and to secure payment of beauty.

Bratislava does not offer much in terms of art, but is very generous with those who want to walk in busy pedestrian streets and dine at outdoor restaurants in the historic center. The office information knows that mass tourism is directed to where they can meet basic needs in its brochures and reports the bar frequented "by Some of Bratislava's hottest women." For me, this stage marks the return to the Danube and I try to celebrate the winery Klastorna described by Claudio Magris Danube in his . Neither the brochure referred to above nor the international guides the appointment and I assume that this is not a place for love affairs or booze at low cost. I find, as the name suggests, under the cloister of the Franciscan church. It is friendly and the wine list is tempting, but, because of this, I do not feel like cenarci alone. I opt for a restaurant low vaults, with lots of photos on the walls and a bustle tourist permit, waiting for the food, relax and not feel lonely.

After dinner, I discover, behind the cathedral of San Michele, a deserted square: a staircase separates it from the busy street and there stands a building is not restored, perhaps the only one left in the center. Its walls are crumbling and the windows sealed with panels painted with subjects drawn from the paintings of Van Gogh, silhouettes of dogs and, on the ground floor, a stairway trompe l'oeil . There are no distractions, loneliness is inevitable.

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Rossiya

leave Ulan Ude to Rossiya , the train connecting Moscow to Vladivostok. Through the window, a profusion of still water that reflected the sky and the forests, but many of the conifers are sick. For the seven hundred kilometers railway runs along the Amur River, which is the border with China. This region was occupied by the Russians in the forties of the nineteenth century, when they discovered that the Chinese had left unguarded. Until a few years ago, the compartments with foreigners on board were darkened and locked.

also through the Jewish Autonomous Region, a state created by Stalin in 1927 to provide a "home" to the Russian Jews. We settled on 43,000. Anti-Semitism of the thirties, however, led to the banning of the Hebrew language and the closure of the synagogue. In 1991 there were still 22,000 Jews, which fell to 4,800 after the reopening of relations between Russia and Israel and the consequent emigration to other Jewish state.

The train enters the station of Vladivostok on time, the 9289 km Trans-Siberian. Once out on the forecourt, we see that here all the cars driving on the right. What in Moscow, Ekaterinburg and again, it was an isolated event has gradually become more frequent, to be the norm. The reason is understandable: it is used Japanese cars that come by ship to Vladivostok and here they are resold at discount prices. Not explained, however, because the authorities tolerate the phenomenon, given the high number of motor vehicle accidents that seems to be common in Russia.

rent a car to drive on the left to go to meet Gaivoron Victor Yudin. It is a scientist who, with his wife, keep animals in danger of extinction and then rid the forest of Primorije the puppies can be born. A house of Dr. Yudin there are also children of the local elementary school. Evenly split their curiosity among animals and the three strange people who speak an incomprehensible language instead of Russian. Victor shows us two Amur tigers with their puppy about a year, a family of bears from the collar, a pair of lynxes, foxes, wild cats and raccoons. A bear and a lynx have lost a leg in a trap. Poachers are, in fact, the mortal danger to these animals, especially tigers, sought by the Chinese to manufacture products of traditional medicine.

Animals and Russian men seem to have shared the fear of the Chinese. Estimates official Kremlin talk of a million Chinese have settled illegally in the Far East Russia, compared to four million Russians. Independent sources, however, argue that the illegal Chinese migrants were already a million and a half. Alex, our guide and interpreter on this trip, we did find, Vladivostok and Ussurijsk, which markets the Chinese invasion, both of sellers of goods, total. Meat, fruit and vegetables are imported from China and the wide spaces between one city to another are not cultivated or pasture. A little 'because it is cheaper to import Chinese goods and a bit', according to Alexandra, for decades the Soviets have eradicated the desire to work. The Soviet period did not like it at all, even if born in the early eighties. Near Ussurskj we moved next to a monument that celebrates the ultimate victory of the Red on White in 1922. Alexandra said that this region of Russia had no need of communism, as area was developed thanks to strong foreign investment. Japanese and Americans supported the Whites, but in the end, he concludes, "we lost."

On the way back once again admire the monumental stones, concrete and metal, which mark the beginning of the city. Along with the coats of arms are an area in which the Soviets excelled and of which traces have been valuable. For the rest, Siberia seems to me that almost nothing remained of the seventy-year history of the USSR, even if they have gone only fifteen of its dissolution. There are no statues of Lenin, the names of some streets and buildings of the popular suburbs, in addition to the nostalgia of a few people like Olga. For all other Russians and for all aspects of daily life, the world seems started ten years ago. Some items, like the samovar, give the impression to exist forever, while everything else is made in Japan or made in China in 2000.

Washington Dc Attractions Map Printable

part of the thirteenth, twelfth part

Olga

descend from Vostok , the train connecting Moscow to Beijing, Ulan Ude, the capital of the Buryat Republic. We are taking back what, until the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, was the most important way of tea from China to Europe: Ulan Ude in those days was the "Eastern Gate of Russia".

Our new landlady at the window and waiting for us when we see it kicks and screams in French. It is the language taught at the local Polytechnic. We are welcomed in a nice apartment and elegant as ever, contrasts with the gloomy stairwell. In the first five minutes of talk time ago to tell us that Gorbachev was a reformer only in words, while Yeltsin and Putin are like the Communists, even worse, because they have censored the press and the salaries of university professors are low. I recall the conversation with Elena Ekaterinburg, another Russian woman who loves the French language. He was telling us that we must pay attention to women steering wheel because they often have buy the license from a police officer, obviously they have not learned to drive. "Our President Putin, however, - he concluded - is fighting corruption,"

The room in which sleep is the study of Olga and so I can browse through his photos of the seventies, which depict an exemplary in the shoes of the young intellectual, and browse through his books. There are Balzac and Moliere, La pensée européenne au XVIIIème siècle Paul Hazard, Traditions and Culture of the Buryats . The Buryat are one of the nomadic people of Mongolian origin who settled in this region after the Huns, the Kuricani and the Uighurs. They took shamanism, and not abandoned it completely even after the introduction of Buddhism Lamaist, indeed, the two religious practices have found a compromise and created an original synthesis. The first Buddhist monastery was built in 1741, when the Empress Elizabeth, the first among the European heads of state, officially recognized religion. An important role in the promotion of Buddhism in Buryatia took place, at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Agvan Dorzhiev, director of the thirteenth Dalai Lama. The same Dorzhiev was representative of the Government Tibetan at the court of the tsar in St. Petersburg, where he built the largest Buddhist temple in Europe and where another Buryat, Peter Badmaev, practicing Tibetan medicine. A student of Badmaev, Gombozhab Tsibikov, challenged the ban on entry, and its death penalty imposed by the Tibetan authorities to foreigners. Then told his trip A Buddhist Pilgrim in Tibet Holy , a book which, however, never reached the fame of contemporary a Parisian trip to Lhasa Alexandra David-Neel.

From Ulan Ude: History and Modern Day learn, however, the history of Russian colonization in the region. The city was founded in 1666 by Cossacks as Ostrog , winter camp at the confluence of the rivers Selenga and Ude. The area was attractive to the possibility of river trade with China and the abundance of fur animals. The farmers arrived there only because forced to do so or exiled by the tsarist government, which was to cater for the needs of sustenance of Cossacks, traders and hunters. Even in this city when it was still called Verkhneudinsk, came the beneficial effect of the Decembrists were deported. Here the Soviets took six months of the revolution to triumph and had to capitulate in August 1918 in front of the Czech Legion, a group of ex-prisoners who had created a breakaway republic in Siberia, taking control of the western half of the trans-Siberian railway. In November 1917 the Czechs were 92,000 prisoners of war in Russia. Their leader, Tomas Masaryk, wanted to organize them in military formations that had fought on the side of Russia against the Central Powers and contributed, thus, the birth of independent Czechoslovakia. The Bolsheviks, however, put an end to the war and had to face Czechs a journey of 8,000 km to the east along the Trans-Siberian to reach Vladivostok, the only port from which, in that situation, they could embark for Europe. The clashes with the Bolsheviks began in May 1918, reached the extreme eastern regions of Russia, and culminated at the end of June, with the capture of Vladivostok. In July, the city was declared a protectorate of the Allied-occupied Czech and so it was that began to flood the Japanese and French contingents that would later clash with the Red Army. Meanwhile, the Czech Legion, working backward, seized and went to Irkutsk to Ekaterinburg and Kazan.

The Red Army recaptured only in 1920 Verkhneudinsk, whose name was changed to Ulan Ude in 1934 by the Central Executive Committee of All Russia. The Thirties and, even more, those of the Great Patriotic War were the years of industrialization, when, as is this text written in 2001, "the people employed by sacrificing himself, ignoring the time, effort and rest. The collective effort of many companies was recognized by the leaders of the Party, and rewarded with the red insignia of the National Defense Committee. The intellectuals of the city gave a significant contribution to the victory over fascist Germany. Sampilov, for example, he painted numerous paintings patriotic including horses to the front of the kolkhoz .

Breakfast is the time of day when Olga depicts the contemporary Russian society. The colors are dark: the poor are left to themselves while the new rich have a lot of money how little culture. To stay in the neighborhood, traditionally inhabited by educated people, now beginning to appear intruders like the owner of a vodka factory, which moved with the armed escort. The new rich send their children to private schools, take them and make them go by car, do not let them play in the yard and instill in them the virus of classism. Quite the opposite happened when Olga was young, when the youth community life was among the pioneers of communism.

A Russian sailor met at the bus station in Vilnius, fond of naval battles, told me that the school in Russia is becoming increasingly expensive and that he was always around the world to work to ensure a good standard of living for his wife, his brother and pay studies in the future to their children. His theory on the revolution of 1917: dead or had escaped the more educated elements, the power had fallen into the hands of a generation of morons and only now the situation was slowly improving.

Witty Friendly Messages

Vostok, Vostok

Edward Henry Harriman

Lasciamo Krasnoyarsk with train 340, the Moscow-Cita. We divide the compartment with Kan Wei Hong, one of the many Chinese who flock to the car in which foreigners are concentrated. From his bag of black cloth spreads the smell of the Chinese spice that ten years ago, in London, used to marinate the pork chops when I worked in the kitchen of a restaurant, orders a chef in Hong Kong fan of opera .

Kan, like his compatriots, is headed for China, to Harbin, and to get there, take in Chita the Chinese Eastern Railway, the branch of the Trans-Siberian railway was built between 1897 and 1901 to reach Vladivostok through a corridor that the Tsar had obtained the empire China. The Russians had to defend it from the Boxer Rebellion in 1899 and retained control after the defeat in the war against Japan in 1905, after which Russia had to surrender to the Japanese South Manchuria is located in the railway. The South Manchurian Railway, however, linking Beijing to the Chinese Eastern Railway, fell under Japanese control.

An American, Edward Henry Harriman, tried to buy both sections, pursuing his project of a railway circumplanetaria. He began buying shares of railroad companies in 1870, when twenty-two, was a broker at the Stock Exchange on Wall Street. In 1881 he took complete control of a railroad in the State of New York, thirty miles in all. In the nineties skillfully exploited the crisis in the stock market and put his hands on the Union Pacific Railroad. He became famous for having inspected the line, from the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean in 1898, meticulously checking every mile of track, every exchange, every locomotive, every car. In the end, solved all the problems, he was exhausted, but the railroad found itself in excellent health. After a short holiday to which he had forced the doctor, 31 May 1899, left the port of Seattle on board the steamship George W. Elder : it had organized a scientific expedition in Alaska, with the aim of collecting data for the construction of a railroad passing through. The trip gave Harriman a reputation as intrepid explorer, a fjord and a glacier took his name, but the original design was abandoned, as well as negotiations for the purchase of the Chinese Eastern Railway. The Russians held the check until 1935, when they sold it to Japan, three years before he had again invaded Manchuria, renaming it Manchukuo. Stalin recovered thanks to the agreements of Yalta, and handed over to China in 1952 as a gesture of brotherhood. Relations between the USSR and China, however, got worse, until the fighting armed on the Ussuri River in 1969. The railroad then was closed and it was only in the eighties which was reconnected to the Trans-Siberian.

No matter where you arrive, if they're on the train, said Gianmaria, Harriman, and if we had carried out his plan to arrive in New York.

The train left us at the station of Irkutsk to 8:30 am. On top of the staircase from the lobby door subway six taxi drivers offering their services to a wave of commuters. Kids are camped out in camouflage backpacks and sleeping mats in every room waiting, perhaps go to the colony. One of them instead of camouflage wearing a black sweatshirt with the words "Fuck the system". In the lobby there is also a Seventh Day Adventist, white shirt, tie, pants and shoes blacks, speaking at the American mobile phone and the name written in Cyrillic on the plate hanging from his shirt pocket.

As in every station of the Trans-Siberian, clocks and scoreboards of departures and arrivals mark Moscow time, five time zones away, but here the opening hours are posted on the doors of the Ticket based on local time, so the compactness of the cracking microcosm of the railroad, a long tentacle of Moscow over nine thousand kilometers.

reach the block of all'undici Proletarskaya Ulica where it should be the home of Mrs. Lena, with whom we booked an overnight stay. Doors and gates are wide open and there are no telephones. We are about to leave to find a pay phone from which you can contact the owner when a girl comes and opens one of the heavy metal doors, the reach and take the package with the name and address of our guest. I confirm that the address is right but shakes her head reading the name of Mrs. Lena. However, we are part and follow the stairs in search of the interior number 15, we find that to be the girl next door. Sound the bell, Mrs. Lena opens the door, welcomed us warmly and welcomed the close.

The owner is a lady of about fifty, small in stature and lively, which makes us sit in a room furnished with dark wood and massive beds covered with leopard print fabric. He knows a few words of English and strives to explain how to visit the city and how to obtain the registration of the visa, but we find it hard to understand what it means.

Irkutsk lived a happy time after the conspiracy of the Decembrists in December 1825. The rebels were aristocrats of the Enlightenment ideas that had attempted to overthrow the regime of Tsar Nicholas I. The plan had failed, five conspirators were hanged and the other confined to Siberia. Their families settled in Irkutsk, where, thanks to energetic wives and large estates, built hospitals and vocational schools for the people and naturalistic studies of the region started the model of ' Encyclopédie . Today's utopia are the residences of the Decembrists, wooden houses whose windows concentrated in himself the whole decoration of the building: the contours are masterpieces of wooden sculpture and shutters are painted in concentric squares, sometimes with diamond pattern, with bright colors, green, blue and white, or refined combinations of gray, beige, brown, orange.

In Irkutsk there is an information office for tourists, is unusual in Siberia, where to book three seats on the minibus to the island of Olkhon Lake Baikal. We go there the next day and Khuzir, the only village on the island, we find overnight accommodation in a private home. All buildings are wooden and have shutters and gates painted, the doors have locks and the roads are not paved. We are in a group of homes where each family contains some tourists, all Russians, and the women gather together to cook for us visitors, then we gathered for dinner in a common dining room overlooking the courtyard. The attraction of Olkhon is a rocky promontory that was one of five places sacred to the shamans of the region, but there is also a marina where you can photograph rusty ships and wooden buildings with facades whose plot is reminiscent of a cluttered shelf book so that no gaps.

Can Retin A Help Folliculitis On Face

eleventh part, the tenth part

Steaks bear

Oleg teaches English at the University of Krasnoyarsk and takes us to get around the city, the park Stolby and some peaks of Russian humor.

The city is a succession of sites. Rise skyscrapers and shopping malls, built with high-grade materials, which are in addition to the three previous layers Siberian town planning: the nineteenth-century wooden houses with one or two floors, Art Nouveau buildings the early twentieth century and building popular with his Soviet counterpart of public buildings in neoclassical style. In the central streets, dedicated to Marx, Lenin, Peace and Dictatorship of the Proletariat were opened several shops selling goods and all necessities.

leave the center of Krasnoyarsk for Osvianka, a village along the Yenisei River where the house is now a museum, the writer Victor Astafev. Rehabilitated with the perestroika, had long been marginalized because it is not aligned with the Communist Party. Thanks to his past as a fighter in World War II, however, had enjoyed a certain freedom of expression and denounced the environmental hazards caused by the industrialization of Siberia. One of his famous poem is devoted to the sturgeon disappeared from the waters of the Yenisei after the construction of dams. A few years ago, a monument to the sturgeon, with the poetry of Astafev engraved on the pedestal, was erected at a point along the scenic river. Gorbachev and Yeltsin came to visit him and on those occasions the writer, now very old, was brought into the home, where, to use the media, he pretended was still alive.

Today the village is a fashionable place for those who want a second home, but the door of many of the old housing is a red star metal, affixed to remember that a member of that family has fallen in the Great Patriotic War, as World War II is called in Russia.

sailed up the river, the dam of direct Dvinogorsk, and we find many abandoned factories. They are especially steel and chemical industries, explains Oleg, still fifteen years: it is cheaper to buy Chinese goods rather than producing them and the same holds true for fruits and vegetables. The dam, begun in the fifties, came into operation in 1971, one hundred meters high and can produce six million kilowatts. Its construction resulted in the birth of a town whose thirty Thousand, but now work mainly in Krasnoyarsk, as twelve people enough to run the hydroelectric plant. In the squares of Dvinogorsk there are two monuments: the first is dedicated to the trucks which were transported the materials for the construction of the dam and is obviously one of those vehicles hoisted on a pedestal, while the second, a stylized metal tent was erected to commemorate the workers who first came to work here, living, even in winter, in tents. They were volunteers who had come to 'build communism. "

Oleg, meanwhile, complains of invasion of the American hamburger and asks us Even if Italy is affected. I tell them it's burgers are, but eat them especially the teen-ager, while adults prefer traditional foods. His comment is: "Patriotism comes with age." Gianmaria questions him on the regional dishes and he says there are none, perhaps, the specialty is a piece of bear hunting in the forest.

Stolby Nature Reserve is a popular destination for picnics of the inhabitants of Krasnoyarsk and is famous for a huge area littered with basaltic rocks that have become anthropomorphic or zoomorphic forms. Oleg I ask if there are stories and myths concerning the origin of these rocks, as is for those in the Sierra Tarahumara of Mexico, and he replied: "No, Indians Have a lot of time for dreaming." Then, perhaps sorry for the abrupt denial or perhaps because he realizes that he has irrevocably excluded the Russians from the category of dreamers, adds that there is a story, and said that Lenin, before the revolution, had organized a gathering of Bolsheviks in their this forest, with lots of songs and a red flag hoisted on the rocks. Achieved by the Tsarist police, the subversives were saved after dispersal in the forest.

A man is climbing in a crevice of a group of rocks. We look to reach the top and then sliding back down along another slit nicknamed Grattapelle. The man is then to meet us and discover our nationality, reveals that every morning pastry from a magazine photo of Florence, the Pieta of Michelangelo, of Mount Titano and Rimini. So that takes us under a rock, with the two that support the sides, forming an arch called the Porta dei Leoni. Being there in the past, we learn, there is the removal of all sins. Purified, we do to get away, but it still offers the climber a number: Elephant climbed on the rock, which actually looks like a pig, it follows making slide upside down. "You're lucky, the n'ya pas toujours Le Cirque ici, "says Oleg.

Dry Hair Before Period

final destination. Air

For those who dabble in the umbrella to follow the Italian politics and, in this case, the pirouettes evolutionary former comrade Fini, some pearls worthy of reflection.

Luca Barbareschi: Future and Freedom is not a political party right. These categories are outdated. I, who are proudly Craxi, I want to speed up the process of destruction of Berlusconi, now at sunset. "

Chiara Moroni: "With Fini can finally be implemented socialist reformism. I want to continue to express my identity, voice and representation to many socialists in Italy and there are still those young people who are also without knowing it. And I Fini seems that outlining is a political project innovative. Where could find citizenship a new social identity. "

Italo Bocchino:" The elections? She did not want and probably do not even agree to Berlusconi. But if you will go 'to the polls, I believe that the figure of Fini will be' more 'expendable for a new alliance along with moderate separatists, of the centrist Democratic Party, leaders of the moderate right. "

Pier Ferdinando Casini," Fini is the victim of a squads intimidating. "

Fabio Granata:" We ask the Italians, the right and left and all those good people who claim a new policy, not to put on the cross for a vote. From today in Parliament, thanks to our initiative, there was a large area of \u200b\u200bParliament. In September we will see some good ... "