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part of the nineteenth, the eighteenth part

ontological error of Ceausescu

The night train from Varna leads me to Bucharest and Moscow as a destination belongs to the Russian railways. The two provodniki wagon are already drunk before departure and check what I can not read the ticket even after having put on his glasses and turned on the light of his desk. At the border will be groomed by police Romanians because they do not know how many passengers of the car will not be able to count (we are seven in all) and do not even find their documents.

Radu, one of the other six passengers, working in Bucharest for an MEP Romania. From the train station, along the center of town, where Ceausescu built the Casa del Popolo, a huge building and insignificant as Unirii Boulevard, the road that branches off from it. The intention of the dictator would have to obscure the fame of the Champs Elysees and to achieve it did raze one of the most beautiful in the nineteenth century Bucharest. The boulevard is actually longer than six meters in Paris, but the essence of the Champs Elysées is not in size, in the form of tree-lined avenue flanked by buildings or in the name of heavenly. Activities is that people will play, which, in turn, attract other people and so on. Nothing interesting, though, happens on the road that leads to the Casa del Popolo.

not even impressive Revolution Square, overlooked by the palace that was home to the Central Committee of the Communist Party here Ceausescu gave his last speech, before placing orders to fire on the crowd and groped flight. Radu tells me that is not a museum that tells the events of 1989 because "it is too early," and many consider nothing more than the revolution a coup organized by several generals, as there was no real opposition to the regime. With the execution of the dictator, however, the Romanians shrugged off a government that oppressed the people with oppressive policies such as no basis to meet the needs of people. The collectivization of agriculture, for example, was integral to the economy as was the Unirii Boulevard in terms of urban planning. The ethnographer and painter Horia Bernea use the term "deception" to define the communist regime, the word emphasizes the use of a system of deceit and lies, and evokes empathy for, the use of wild charges.

Ceausescu came to define 'Epoca de Aur "The years 1965 to 1989, during which, to pay the foreign debt, diverted to export agricultural production and forced the population to malnutrition . In Alba Iulia an exhibition tells the time in an essential but highly effective, combining propaganda and reality: the objects of the "social consumption", for example, are displayed alongside the reports of Securitate, the political police that controlling teachers "slanderers" and preparing "actions" against dissident intellectuals. The persecution of the latter, however, was not an invention of Ceausescu: Nicolae Baciu, whose work is now dedicated a room in the castle of Bran, was arrested and tortured in 1948, managed to escape, to swim across the Danube and repair in Yugoslavia. Also arrested there, then fled to Paris, where he published his research on the "betrayal" perpetrated at Yalta by Churchill and Roosevelt to the detriment of the countries of Eastern Europe.

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House humor

Gabrovo is a town in central Bulgaria, whose inhabitants are known for their attachment to money and their commercial enterprise. For this reason have become the protagonists of the Bulgarian jokes about stingy. In order to substantiate these rumors, and of course, profit, April 1, 1972 they founded the house of humor, appointed to collect and pass on the jokes about them. I learn in this way that, during the feast, the inhabitants of Gabrovo dance in silence and with shoes lined with felt to dampen noise and make the musical accompaniment of the orchestra that is playing in the nearest town. The jars have a protection that allows you to not wet his mustache with the beer foam, thus avoiding to consume a towel to dry them. Reproductions of typical mugs and other items are obviously for sale in the gift shop of the House.

Over the years, the House, whose motto is "The world lasts because it laughs," has launched a series of competitions international humor and satire, with sections for painting, graphics, sculpture, photography and cartoons, all areas in which today has an amazing collection. In 1983 he started publishing the magazine "By the way, whose director, Todor Dinova, describes the Bulgaria in the preface to the first issue:" It is a small Balkan country, located at the crossroads between Europe and Asia. For over 1300 years this state has the same name and has never moved from his seat. It has withstood the vicissitudes of history, not for the strength of its population or that of his hosts, but for that of her smile. " Among the pages of the magazine, then find some knowledge of the previous days: the devils that live in the frescoes of the monastery of Rila and Otto Reisinger, the cartoonist of Slovenian origin whose boards are displayed at the National Gallery of Art in Sofia.

deserves a space the man who runs the hostel where I have settled in Sofia: a pot-bellied man of about fifty badly worn, with white hair and shaggy beard and unkempt, not speaks English but knows a few words of several other languages, is cross-eyed and very kind. His number is most amusing mimic American tourists that have battered the coffee machine, door handles and washing machine. In it is around the hostel, he repeats the gestures of the unfortunate guests, shaking his head with disgust and disbelief and mutters face the greatest disappointment with "Amerikanski, amerikanski.

Delicious are my guests to Madara, a city of northeastern Bulgaria. My goal is to visit the Goljamata Peshtera , the large cave in which the worship of Dionysus and Cybele, and I stop for tourists in a house located near the archaeological site. It is a construction of the sixties, never restored and run by a couple rather advanced in years. The owner me talk about trying to slip a bit 'of English in its German, shows me the room ohne bathroom and ends every sentence with a slight bow.

The archaeological park is famous for the bas-relief dating from the eighth century, which is reproduced on the coins Bulgarian: the Khan kills a lion, accompanied by his dog who is the faithful people. It can be reached via a staircase that opens in the middle of a forest, on top of which I appear, heralded by the sound of a flute, a man in traditional costume that has the air of being there since he was appointed guardian of Dionysus' sacred area dedicated to their cults. Now he pretends to be a seller of wind instruments, buy a whistle, that man chooses and gives me thoughtfully accompanied by a long series of recommendations for the child who'll give the object.

Unfortunately you can not visit the caves and, therefore, I'm going home. The lounge bar is furnished with three tables with chairs in metal-coated synthetic leather and consumed and the first one I tried was sold because he had a broken leg. On every table there are tablecloths with floral prints and pots with plants that grow in water. On the windowsill inside a large glass semicircular have sided flowers in a vase and succulent plants, next to a television broadcasting the soap opera followed by the owner. I ask how one can reach Varna and the lady tells me that the only option is to take the morning train for Šumen, where I can find a connecting flight to Varna. Given that I will cover some miles on foot to reach the station, estimated that out of the house around 6.30 and, therefore, balance the account and greeting, they are the only customer and I will not force the woman to get up early. The next morning, however, when I go out of my room that I'm the owner is making coffee.

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part seventeenth, sixteenth part

See Albania

I Tedeschini spouses, Joseph and Alma, manage the only bed & breakfast in Durres. The city is the port of Albania for those who come by sea from the west and the pair plays a similar role: it introduces travelers to the knowledge of their country.

I was met by a friend in Albania, Elena, and the house where we were greeted is a building of 1840, one of the few that survive the housing boom. With democracy has returned to private ownership and most of those who have seen the return property nationalized by the communist regime to transfer it to builders in exchange for a couple of floors of the skyscraper that will replace their old property.

This is not any house: it was the residence of the Consul of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a position he has held the Tedeschini and handed down from father to son, after having been for centuries and always inherited by Consuls of the Republic of Venice. The First World War has wiped out the empire, and with it, the family business, Joseph is now an agronomist in charge of biological and integrated, but the attachment to the history of the ancestors is big: the portrait of the princess Sissi which dominates the dining room has been hidden under the mattress for decades at a time when we ended up in jail if caught listening to Celentano or the Beatles.

Ben out in the same room, there is a photographic catalog of the Hapsburg possessions, printed in 1896 during the fifty years of the reign of Francis Joseph I am passionate to leaf through it because the town meeting, before arriving in Albania, I visited the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia and Slovenia. The volume bears the stamp on the front page of the console Tedeschini.

the evening, Alma brings us together around a map of Albania and discussing the places to visit the next day. After choosing a destination, plunder the family library for historical information, archaeological, ethnographic.

In Berat, for example, a city founded by the Byzantines and then belonged to the Turks, the development of twentieth century did not affect the architectural coherence of the oldest neighborhoods: Gorica, Mangalemi and the Citadel. The dense texture of their buildings whitewashed and inlaid with Byzantine churches, mosques and mansions of Pasha, one of which is housed a renowned Museum of Ethnography. Photographs of tourist publications portray them from below, highlighting the many windows, but from the ramparts of the castle, searching the rooftops and the plant, it can also appreciate the consistency.

The Citadel, the Byzantine church of San Nicola is in an advanced stage of restoration, we pause to observe the painting of an interior wall, a saint whose left eye was removed. At that point, the painting presents a groove an inch deep. This is a frequent occurrence in countries that were subject to the Ottoman Empire, often reported in the accounts of Western travelers since the nineteenth century. In any case, the culprit was identified among the Turks or Albanians Muslims as proof of their barbarity. In the eighties of last century the phenomenon was exploited by the propaganda of the Serbian offensive against Kosovo Albanians, which was attributed, among other things, the blindness of the Byzantine princess Simonida fresco in the monastery of Gracanica, near Pristina.

the issue has recently occupied Božidar Jezernik, anthropologist at the University Ljubljana, in his book Wild Europe, The Balkans in the Gaze of Western Travellers . Jezernik shows that were the same as Orthodox believers to affect the frescoes to remove the dust that is believed to have miraculous power to cure vision problems. All with the blessing of the clergy, who tolerate this practice pocketed substantial offers. Because Western had no passengers questioned the suspected version unfavorable to the Muslims and personally? Jezernik suggests that they were prepared to see only what they had already decided that they would see in those remote and unknown regions of Europe. A little 'as it happens today, the Western tourists they see the rest of the world only to be pitied poor or picturesque places in front of which sigh, so that he can feel simultaneously good and above.

The denigration of a country always prepares his "civilization" or its colonization. Bismarck, tells Joseph, said that in Albania there were men with tails, he was not alone, so much so that Jezernik devoted to the subject one of the tastiest chapters of his book.

not only sight but also hearing can be misleading: it is perhaps because the name sounds Italian Tedeschini that a young Londoner, Having stayed in B & B among the relics of the Hapsburgs, it has been convinced that the building was the former Italian consulate.

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Pope: "To accept
peoples of all nations and cultures"
The message of Benedict XVI: "Parents must educate
their children to the universal brotherhood "

The Pope's words come after the Sarkozy government's decision to expel dozens of immigrants and Roma after the warning of the CEI on immigration to Italy. Bishop Giancarlo Perego, Director General of the Fondazione Migrantes Italian Episcopal Conference (CEI), said in fact that "Italy can not decide to expel the Roma across the board or other public Community. "


MESTRE. Besieged by beggars and fools:
Capuchin monks "sealed" the church
a railing and a wall will make inaccessible
the churchyard at night, where they camp for some time the stragglers

Mestre (17 August) - In September, the church of the Capuchins closes in the bunker. Via a gate on the side of cappuccino and a gate and a wall on the side of the square. The brothers are exacerbated and after having tried everything they have decided to close. And the Polish Josef will move. With him another 7-8 that made those "Sotoportego" their home.