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part of the thirteenth, twelfth part

Olga

descend from Vostok , the train connecting Moscow to Beijing, Ulan Ude, the capital of the Buryat Republic. We are taking back what, until the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, was the most important way of tea from China to Europe: Ulan Ude in those days was the "Eastern Gate of Russia".

Our new landlady at the window and waiting for us when we see it kicks and screams in French. It is the language taught at the local Polytechnic. We are welcomed in a nice apartment and elegant as ever, contrasts with the gloomy stairwell. In the first five minutes of talk time ago to tell us that Gorbachev was a reformer only in words, while Yeltsin and Putin are like the Communists, even worse, because they have censored the press and the salaries of university professors are low. I recall the conversation with Elena Ekaterinburg, another Russian woman who loves the French language. He was telling us that we must pay attention to women steering wheel because they often have buy the license from a police officer, obviously they have not learned to drive. "Our President Putin, however, - he concluded - is fighting corruption,"

The room in which sleep is the study of Olga and so I can browse through his photos of the seventies, which depict an exemplary in the shoes of the young intellectual, and browse through his books. There are Balzac and Moliere, La pensée européenne au XVIIIème siècle Paul Hazard, Traditions and Culture of the Buryats . The Buryat are one of the nomadic people of Mongolian origin who settled in this region after the Huns, the Kuricani and the Uighurs. They took shamanism, and not abandoned it completely even after the introduction of Buddhism Lamaist, indeed, the two religious practices have found a compromise and created an original synthesis. The first Buddhist monastery was built in 1741, when the Empress Elizabeth, the first among the European heads of state, officially recognized religion. An important role in the promotion of Buddhism in Buryatia took place, at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Agvan Dorzhiev, director of the thirteenth Dalai Lama. The same Dorzhiev was representative of the Government Tibetan at the court of the tsar in St. Petersburg, where he built the largest Buddhist temple in Europe and where another Buryat, Peter Badmaev, practicing Tibetan medicine. A student of Badmaev, Gombozhab Tsibikov, challenged the ban on entry, and its death penalty imposed by the Tibetan authorities to foreigners. Then told his trip A Buddhist Pilgrim in Tibet Holy , a book which, however, never reached the fame of contemporary a Parisian trip to Lhasa Alexandra David-Neel.

From Ulan Ude: History and Modern Day learn, however, the history of Russian colonization in the region. The city was founded in 1666 by Cossacks as Ostrog , winter camp at the confluence of the rivers Selenga and Ude. The area was attractive to the possibility of river trade with China and the abundance of fur animals. The farmers arrived there only because forced to do so or exiled by the tsarist government, which was to cater for the needs of sustenance of Cossacks, traders and hunters. Even in this city when it was still called Verkhneudinsk, came the beneficial effect of the Decembrists were deported. Here the Soviets took six months of the revolution to triumph and had to capitulate in August 1918 in front of the Czech Legion, a group of ex-prisoners who had created a breakaway republic in Siberia, taking control of the western half of the trans-Siberian railway. In November 1917 the Czechs were 92,000 prisoners of war in Russia. Their leader, Tomas Masaryk, wanted to organize them in military formations that had fought on the side of Russia against the Central Powers and contributed, thus, the birth of independent Czechoslovakia. The Bolsheviks, however, put an end to the war and had to face Czechs a journey of 8,000 km to the east along the Trans-Siberian to reach Vladivostok, the only port from which, in that situation, they could embark for Europe. The clashes with the Bolsheviks began in May 1918, reached the extreme eastern regions of Russia, and culminated at the end of June, with the capture of Vladivostok. In July, the city was declared a protectorate of the Allied-occupied Czech and so it was that began to flood the Japanese and French contingents that would later clash with the Red Army. Meanwhile, the Czech Legion, working backward, seized and went to Irkutsk to Ekaterinburg and Kazan.

The Red Army recaptured only in 1920 Verkhneudinsk, whose name was changed to Ulan Ude in 1934 by the Central Executive Committee of All Russia. The Thirties and, even more, those of the Great Patriotic War were the years of industrialization, when, as is this text written in 2001, "the people employed by sacrificing himself, ignoring the time, effort and rest. The collective effort of many companies was recognized by the leaders of the Party, and rewarded with the red insignia of the National Defense Committee. The intellectuals of the city gave a significant contribution to the victory over fascist Germany. Sampilov, for example, he painted numerous paintings patriotic including horses to the front of the kolkhoz .

Breakfast is the time of day when Olga depicts the contemporary Russian society. The colors are dark: the poor are left to themselves while the new rich have a lot of money how little culture. To stay in the neighborhood, traditionally inhabited by educated people, now beginning to appear intruders like the owner of a vodka factory, which moved with the armed escort. The new rich send their children to private schools, take them and make them go by car, do not let them play in the yard and instill in them the virus of classism. Quite the opposite happened when Olga was young, when the youth community life was among the pioneers of communism.

A Russian sailor met at the bus station in Vilnius, fond of naval battles, told me that the school in Russia is becoming increasingly expensive and that he was always around the world to work to ensure a good standard of living for his wife, his brother and pay studies in the future to their children. His theory on the revolution of 1917: dead or had escaped the more educated elements, the power had fallen into the hands of a generation of morons and only now the situation was slowly improving.

Witty Friendly Messages

Vostok, Vostok

Edward Henry Harriman

Lasciamo Krasnoyarsk with train 340, the Moscow-Cita. We divide the compartment with Kan Wei Hong, one of the many Chinese who flock to the car in which foreigners are concentrated. From his bag of black cloth spreads the smell of the Chinese spice that ten years ago, in London, used to marinate the pork chops when I worked in the kitchen of a restaurant, orders a chef in Hong Kong fan of opera .

Kan, like his compatriots, is headed for China, to Harbin, and to get there, take in Chita the Chinese Eastern Railway, the branch of the Trans-Siberian railway was built between 1897 and 1901 to reach Vladivostok through a corridor that the Tsar had obtained the empire China. The Russians had to defend it from the Boxer Rebellion in 1899 and retained control after the defeat in the war against Japan in 1905, after which Russia had to surrender to the Japanese South Manchuria is located in the railway. The South Manchurian Railway, however, linking Beijing to the Chinese Eastern Railway, fell under Japanese control.

An American, Edward Henry Harriman, tried to buy both sections, pursuing his project of a railway circumplanetaria. He began buying shares of railroad companies in 1870, when twenty-two, was a broker at the Stock Exchange on Wall Street. In 1881 he took complete control of a railroad in the State of New York, thirty miles in all. In the nineties skillfully exploited the crisis in the stock market and put his hands on the Union Pacific Railroad. He became famous for having inspected the line, from the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean in 1898, meticulously checking every mile of track, every exchange, every locomotive, every car. In the end, solved all the problems, he was exhausted, but the railroad found itself in excellent health. After a short holiday to which he had forced the doctor, 31 May 1899, left the port of Seattle on board the steamship George W. Elder : it had organized a scientific expedition in Alaska, with the aim of collecting data for the construction of a railroad passing through. The trip gave Harriman a reputation as intrepid explorer, a fjord and a glacier took his name, but the original design was abandoned, as well as negotiations for the purchase of the Chinese Eastern Railway. The Russians held the check until 1935, when they sold it to Japan, three years before he had again invaded Manchuria, renaming it Manchukuo. Stalin recovered thanks to the agreements of Yalta, and handed over to China in 1952 as a gesture of brotherhood. Relations between the USSR and China, however, got worse, until the fighting armed on the Ussuri River in 1969. The railroad then was closed and it was only in the eighties which was reconnected to the Trans-Siberian.

No matter where you arrive, if they're on the train, said Gianmaria, Harriman, and if we had carried out his plan to arrive in New York.

The train left us at the station of Irkutsk to 8:30 am. On top of the staircase from the lobby door subway six taxi drivers offering their services to a wave of commuters. Kids are camped out in camouflage backpacks and sleeping mats in every room waiting, perhaps go to the colony. One of them instead of camouflage wearing a black sweatshirt with the words "Fuck the system". In the lobby there is also a Seventh Day Adventist, white shirt, tie, pants and shoes blacks, speaking at the American mobile phone and the name written in Cyrillic on the plate hanging from his shirt pocket.

As in every station of the Trans-Siberian, clocks and scoreboards of departures and arrivals mark Moscow time, five time zones away, but here the opening hours are posted on the doors of the Ticket based on local time, so the compactness of the cracking microcosm of the railroad, a long tentacle of Moscow over nine thousand kilometers.

reach the block of all'undici Proletarskaya Ulica where it should be the home of Mrs. Lena, with whom we booked an overnight stay. Doors and gates are wide open and there are no telephones. We are about to leave to find a pay phone from which you can contact the owner when a girl comes and opens one of the heavy metal doors, the reach and take the package with the name and address of our guest. I confirm that the address is right but shakes her head reading the name of Mrs. Lena. However, we are part and follow the stairs in search of the interior number 15, we find that to be the girl next door. Sound the bell, Mrs. Lena opens the door, welcomed us warmly and welcomed the close.

The owner is a lady of about fifty, small in stature and lively, which makes us sit in a room furnished with dark wood and massive beds covered with leopard print fabric. He knows a few words of English and strives to explain how to visit the city and how to obtain the registration of the visa, but we find it hard to understand what it means.

Irkutsk lived a happy time after the conspiracy of the Decembrists in December 1825. The rebels were aristocrats of the Enlightenment ideas that had attempted to overthrow the regime of Tsar Nicholas I. The plan had failed, five conspirators were hanged and the other confined to Siberia. Their families settled in Irkutsk, where, thanks to energetic wives and large estates, built hospitals and vocational schools for the people and naturalistic studies of the region started the model of ' Encyclopédie . Today's utopia are the residences of the Decembrists, wooden houses whose windows concentrated in himself the whole decoration of the building: the contours are masterpieces of wooden sculpture and shutters are painted in concentric squares, sometimes with diamond pattern, with bright colors, green, blue and white, or refined combinations of gray, beige, brown, orange.

In Irkutsk there is an information office for tourists, is unusual in Siberia, where to book three seats on the minibus to the island of Olkhon Lake Baikal. We go there the next day and Khuzir, the only village on the island, we find overnight accommodation in a private home. All buildings are wooden and have shutters and gates painted, the doors have locks and the roads are not paved. We are in a group of homes where each family contains some tourists, all Russians, and the women gather together to cook for us visitors, then we gathered for dinner in a common dining room overlooking the courtyard. The attraction of Olkhon is a rocky promontory that was one of five places sacred to the shamans of the region, but there is also a marina where you can photograph rusty ships and wooden buildings with facades whose plot is reminiscent of a cluttered shelf book so that no gaps.

Can Retin A Help Folliculitis On Face

eleventh part, the tenth part

Steaks bear

Oleg teaches English at the University of Krasnoyarsk and takes us to get around the city, the park Stolby and some peaks of Russian humor.

The city is a succession of sites. Rise skyscrapers and shopping malls, built with high-grade materials, which are in addition to the three previous layers Siberian town planning: the nineteenth-century wooden houses with one or two floors, Art Nouveau buildings the early twentieth century and building popular with his Soviet counterpart of public buildings in neoclassical style. In the central streets, dedicated to Marx, Lenin, Peace and Dictatorship of the Proletariat were opened several shops selling goods and all necessities.

leave the center of Krasnoyarsk for Osvianka, a village along the Yenisei River where the house is now a museum, the writer Victor Astafev. Rehabilitated with the perestroika, had long been marginalized because it is not aligned with the Communist Party. Thanks to his past as a fighter in World War II, however, had enjoyed a certain freedom of expression and denounced the environmental hazards caused by the industrialization of Siberia. One of his famous poem is devoted to the sturgeon disappeared from the waters of the Yenisei after the construction of dams. A few years ago, a monument to the sturgeon, with the poetry of Astafev engraved on the pedestal, was erected at a point along the scenic river. Gorbachev and Yeltsin came to visit him and on those occasions the writer, now very old, was brought into the home, where, to use the media, he pretended was still alive.

Today the village is a fashionable place for those who want a second home, but the door of many of the old housing is a red star metal, affixed to remember that a member of that family has fallen in the Great Patriotic War, as World War II is called in Russia.

sailed up the river, the dam of direct Dvinogorsk, and we find many abandoned factories. They are especially steel and chemical industries, explains Oleg, still fifteen years: it is cheaper to buy Chinese goods rather than producing them and the same holds true for fruits and vegetables. The dam, begun in the fifties, came into operation in 1971, one hundred meters high and can produce six million kilowatts. Its construction resulted in the birth of a town whose thirty Thousand, but now work mainly in Krasnoyarsk, as twelve people enough to run the hydroelectric plant. In the squares of Dvinogorsk there are two monuments: the first is dedicated to the trucks which were transported the materials for the construction of the dam and is obviously one of those vehicles hoisted on a pedestal, while the second, a stylized metal tent was erected to commemorate the workers who first came to work here, living, even in winter, in tents. They were volunteers who had come to 'build communism. "

Oleg, meanwhile, complains of invasion of the American hamburger and asks us Even if Italy is affected. I tell them it's burgers are, but eat them especially the teen-ager, while adults prefer traditional foods. His comment is: "Patriotism comes with age." Gianmaria questions him on the regional dishes and he says there are none, perhaps, the specialty is a piece of bear hunting in the forest.

Stolby Nature Reserve is a popular destination for picnics of the inhabitants of Krasnoyarsk and is famous for a huge area littered with basaltic rocks that have become anthropomorphic or zoomorphic forms. Oleg I ask if there are stories and myths concerning the origin of these rocks, as is for those in the Sierra Tarahumara of Mexico, and he replied: "No, Indians Have a lot of time for dreaming." Then, perhaps sorry for the abrupt denial or perhaps because he realizes that he has irrevocably excluded the Russians from the category of dreamers, adds that there is a story, and said that Lenin, before the revolution, had organized a gathering of Bolsheviks in their this forest, with lots of songs and a red flag hoisted on the rocks. Achieved by the Tsarist police, the subversives were saved after dispersal in the forest.

A man is climbing in a crevice of a group of rocks. We look to reach the top and then sliding back down along another slit nicknamed Grattapelle. The man is then to meet us and discover our nationality, reveals that every morning pastry from a magazine photo of Florence, the Pieta of Michelangelo, of Mount Titano and Rimini. So that takes us under a rock, with the two that support the sides, forming an arch called the Porta dei Leoni. Being there in the past, we learn, there is the removal of all sins. Purified, we do to get away, but it still offers the climber a number: Elephant climbed on the rock, which actually looks like a pig, it follows making slide upside down. "You're lucky, the n'ya pas toujours Le Cirque ici, "says Oleg.

Dry Hair Before Period

final destination. Air

For those who dabble in the umbrella to follow the Italian politics and, in this case, the pirouettes evolutionary former comrade Fini, some pearls worthy of reflection.

Luca Barbareschi: Future and Freedom is not a political party right. These categories are outdated. I, who are proudly Craxi, I want to speed up the process of destruction of Berlusconi, now at sunset. "

Chiara Moroni: "With Fini can finally be implemented socialist reformism. I want to continue to express my identity, voice and representation to many socialists in Italy and there are still those young people who are also without knowing it. And I Fini seems that outlining is a political project innovative. Where could find citizenship a new social identity. "

Italo Bocchino:" The elections? She did not want and probably do not even agree to Berlusconi. But if you will go 'to the polls, I believe that the figure of Fini will be' more 'expendable for a new alliance along with moderate separatists, of the centrist Democratic Party, leaders of the moderate right. "

Pier Ferdinando Casini," Fini is the victim of a squads intimidating. "

Fabio Granata:" We ask the Italians, the right and left and all those good people who claim a new policy, not to put on the cross for a vote. From today in Parliament, thanks to our initiative, there was a large area of \u200b\u200bParliament. In September we will see some good ... "